a person is standing on top of a snow covered mountain looking at a glacier .
7 min read
Aron Freyr

The Ice in Iceland: Vatnajökull National Park

Vatnajökull National Park had been on my travel list for years, and when I finally visited, it exceeded my expectations. This park covers approximately 14% of Iceland and is home to Europe's largest glacier. The landscapes are remarkable, from blue ice caves to powerful waterfalls that make the ground vibrate.

After exploring different parts of the park for several days, I've created this guide to help you plan your trip to this natural wonder.

Key Takeaways

  • Vatnajökull is Europe's largest national park, with glaciers, volcanoes, and waterfalls
  • The park is open all year, but some areas close in winter
  • Summer is good for hiking and boat tours, winter for ice caves and Northern Lights
  • You need guides for glacier hiking and ice cave tours
  • Bring layers and waterproof clothes in any season—the weather changes quickly

What's Vatnajökull National Park? A Concise Overview

Vatnajökull National Park spans 14,141 square kilometers (5460 square miles) in southeastern Iceland. Its main feature is the Vatnajökull ice cap, Europe's largest glacier by volume. The park became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2019 because of its unique combination of active volcanoes under massive glaciers.

What makes this place interesting is the ongoing battle between opposing natural forces. Eight volcanoes lie beneath the ice cap, including Grímsvötn, Iceland's most active volcano. When these erupt, they create ice melt floods called jökulhlaups that shape the surrounding land.

The park isn't only glaciers. It includes many ecosystems from wetlands to highland deserts, birch forests to volcanic plains. You can see thundering waterfalls, lagoons with floating icebergs, or walk on ancient ice.

a snowy mountain in the distance with a field in the foreground .

Formation, History & Importance

Vatnajökull formed millions of years ago through tectonic activity and volcanic eruptions, with its ice cap remaining from the last Ice Age but now shrinking due to warming. Established in 2008 by merging Skaftafell, Jökulsárgljúfur, and Vatnajökull glacier, it became Iceland’s largest protected area. The park is culturally important and scientifically valuable, showing both Icelandic resilience and climate change effects, as glaciers have lost 10–15% of their volume since 2000.

The story of Vatnajökull began millions of years ago, with tectonic plates colliding and volcanic eruptions forming Iceland. These processes continue today, making the park a living example of natural forces. The ice cap itself remains from the last Ice Age, though it's now shrinking due to warming temperatures.

The park was established in 2008 by combining three protected areas: Skaftafell National Park, Jökulsárgljúfur National Park, and the Vatnajökull glacier. This created one large conservation area to better protect the ecosystem.

Beyond geology, Vatnajökull holds cultural significance for Icelanders. The harsh landscape influenced local stories and survival methods. Norse settlers built farms at Skaftafell in the 10th century, creating a green area at the edge of the ice. Their ability to survive volcanic eruptions, floods, and harsh winters is part of Iceland's identity.

Today, the park serves as a site for studying the climate. Vatnajökull's glaciers have lost 10-15% of their volume since 2000, retreating about 210 meters per year. Scientists track these changes to understand climate behaviours, while the newly exposed land shows how plants and animals colonize areas previously covered in snow.

an aerial view of a large blue glacier in the middle of a mountain valley .

Location & How to Get There

Vatnajökull National Park spans southeastern Iceland, with most visitors accessing southern sites along the Ring Road. From Reykjavík, it’s a 4.5-hour (330 km) drive to Skaftafell, with Jökulsárlón 30 minutes further. Travel options include self-driving, limited summer buses, guided day tours, or flights to Höfn, while Highland areas require 4x4 vehicles and road conditions should always be checked, especially in winter.

Vatnajökull National Park dominates southeastern Iceland, stretching from the Ring Road (Route 1) in the south to the Highlands in the north. Most people visit the southern attractions, which are located along the Ring Road.

From Reykjavík, it takes approximately 4.5 hours (about 330 km) to drive to Skaftafell, one of the main visitor centers in the area. Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is another 30 minutes beyond that. While driving gives you the most freedom, you have plenty of options:

  • Self-drive: Rent a car in Keflavik or Reykjavik. Regular cars work fine for Skaftafell and Jökulsárlón via Route 1, but you need 4x4 vehicles for the Highland areas.
  • Public buses: Run between Reykjavík and Skaftafell in summer, but schedules are limited.
  • Guided tours: Many companies offer day trips from Reykjavík to Jökulsárlón and Skaftafell, though these are long days (12+ hours).
  • Flights: You can fly from Reykjavík to Höfn and rent a car there to save time. Höfn is just an hour from Jökulsárlón.

For the northern section of the park (Jökulsárgljúfur area with Dettifoss waterfall), it's better to stay near Lake Mývatn or Húsavík rather than trying to see the entire park in one trip.

When driving, be ready for all conditions. The Ring Road is paved and well-maintained, but the weather can cause road closures, especially in winter. Always check road conditions at road.is before leaving.

Places to Visit at Vatnajökull National Park

Vatnajökull National Park offers diverse landscapes with key highlights. Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon features floating icebergs and nearby Diamond Beach, while Skaftafell has green valleys, the Svartifoss waterfall hike, and glacier walks. Other must-sees include Dettifoss waterfall and Jökulsárgljúfur canyon in the north, winter ice caves near Jökulsárlón or Skaftafell, and the remote Askja caldera in the Highlands, accessible only in summer.

Vatnajökull's size means it contains many different landscapes and natural features. From lagoons filled with ice to powerful waterfalls, each area offers unique experiences. These are the main spots that should be on your list.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

This was the highlight of my visit. Jökulsárlón is a large glacial lake where chunks of ice break off the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier and float slowly toward the sea. The icebergs range from white to deep blue, creating a landscape that changes constantly.

I truly recommend taking a boat tour among the icebergs. You can take either an amphibious boat or a smaller Zodiac boat, which gets you closer to the ice.

Across the road from Jökulsárlón is Diamond Beach, where smaller ice pieces from Jökulsarlon wash up on black volcanic sand. The contrast is striking, especially at sunrise or sunset.

a group of icebergs floating on top of a body of water with mountains in the background .

Skaftafell

Once a national park in its own right, Skaftafell is now the main southern hub of Vatnajökull National Park. What makes it special is its mild climate and green vegetation: a fertile area surrounded by glaciers and volcanic deserts.

The most popular hike leads to Svartifoss, a waterfall framed by hexagonal basalt columns that inspired the design of Reykjavík's Hallgrímskirkja church. The 1.5 km trail (3 km round trip) is well-maintained and takes about 1-2 hours.

Skaftafell is also the starting point for glacier walks on the nearby outlet glaciers, which is another activity that I really recommend.

a man is standing on a cliff overlooking a glacier .

Dettifoss and Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon

In the northern section of the park lies Europe's second most powerful waterfall. Dettifoss drops 44 meters with such force that the ground vibrates beneath your feet. The volume of water is enormous: about 193 cubic meters per second.

You can approach the falls from either the east side (gravel road, more basic) or the west side (paved road, better facilities). Each offers a different view, but both are great. I suggest visiting in the morning when rainbows form in the spray.

The surrounding Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, carved by massive glacial floods, features interesting rock formations and the horseshoe-shaped Ásbyrgi canyon, which Norse mythology says was formed by the hoofprint of Odin's eight-legged horse.

Ice Caves

If you visit in winter (November to March), consider exploring a natural ice cave. These form when summer meltwater carves tunnels beneath the glaciers, which then freeze solid in winter.

The caves show intense blue colors. It’s like stepping inside a blue crystal. Because conditions change each year, and caves can be dangerous without proper equipment, you must visit with a certified guide. Tours cost around $180 per person and typically run from Jökulsárlón or Skaftafell.

a group of people are standing inside of an ice cave .

Askja Caldera

For adventurous travelers with 4x4 vehicles, the Highland interior has Askja, a massive volcanic caldera with a milky-blue geothermal lake.

This remote area is only accessible during the summer months (late June to September), when the Highland roads are open. It's a rough journey, but the unusual landscape makes it worth the effort.

a small lake in the middle of a mountain surrounded by mountains .

Things to Do at Vatnajökull National Park

Vatnajökull National Park offers glacier hiking tours ($90–150), boat tours on Jökulsárlón (amphibious $50–70, Zodiac $130), and snowmobiling from $250. Winter activities include Northern Lights viewing and guided ice cave visits, while hiking options range from easy trails like Svartifoss and Skaftafellsjökull to the challenging Hvannadalshnúkur summit ($500). All glacier activities require certified guides for safety.

Besides sightseeing, Vatnajökull offers many active adventures and unique experiences that create lasting memories.

Glacier Hiking

Putting crampons on your boots and walking on ancient ice is a unique activity. Outlet glaciers, such as Svínafellsjökull and Falljökull, offer accessible terrain for guided glacier hikes.

Tours typically last 2-4 hours and cost $90-$ 150 per person, including all necessary equipment (crampons, ice axes, and helmets). No prior experience is required, but you should have a reasonable level of fitness. Guides are knowledgeable, explaining how glaciers form, move, and create features such as crevasses and icefalls.

Always book with certified guides, as glaciers are dangerous places with hidden crevasses and unstable ice. Never attempt to walk on a glacier by yourself.

a group of people are walking on a glacier in the mountains .

Boat Tours on Jökulsárlón

Seeing icebergs from shore is impressive, but getting out among them is even more impressive. Two types of tours operate on the lagoon:

  • Amphibious boat tours: These larger vessels provide a stable, family-friendly experience that lasts approximately 35 minutes. They run from May through October and cost approximately $50-$ 70.
  • Zodiac boat tours: These smaller, inflatable boats offer a closer experience to the icebergs and provide a more personal experience. Tours last 30-60 minutes and cost around $130.

I did the Amphibious boat tour, and it was an outstanding experience. You get to see the massive icebergs up close, and even some seals. Our guide was lovely and shared many insights about the glacier, the lagoon, and the surrounding area.

a boat is floating in the water near a large iceberg .

Northern Lights Viewing

In winter (September to March), Vatnajökull offers excellent opportunities to see the Northern Lights, also known as the Aurora Borealis. The lack of light pollution and open spaces creates ideal viewing conditions.

Jökulsárlón is particularly good for aurora watching, with green lights above icebergs reflected in the still lagoon. For the best chance of seeing them, check the aurora forecasts on vedur.is and plan to be outside between 9 PM and 1 AM.

a person is standing in an ice cave under the aurora borealis .

Snowmobiling

If you’re after some adrenaline pump, ride a snowmobile across the vast expanse of Vatnajökull. Tours operate year-round and range from 1-2 hour trips to full-day adventures. Prices start around $250 per person.

No previous experience is needed, but you must have a valid driver's license to operate a snowmobile. Dress in warm clothes, even in summer, as it’s always cold on the glacier.

a group of people are riding snowmobiles down a snow covered slope .

Hiking

Beyond glacier hikes, the park offers many trail options for all abilities:

  • Svartifoss Trail: An easy 1.5 km (each way) hike from Skaftafell to the basalt-column waterfall.
  • Skaftafellsjökull Trail: A 3.7 km round-trip to a glacier viewpoint.
  • Dettifoss Viewpoints: Short walks to various views of Europe's second most powerful waterfall.
  • Ásbyrgi Trails: Easy woodland walks in this unique horseshoe-shaped canyon.

For experienced hikers, Vatnajökull offers challenging multi-day routes. The most famous summit is Hvannadalshnúkur (2,110 m), Iceland's highest peak. This demanding 12-16-hour guided trek costs around $500 and requires good fitness and crampon experience.

a man and a woman are sitting on top of a rock overlooking a valley .

Practical Tips for Visitors

Weather: Conditions change quickly, with sunshine, rain, and fog possible within an hour. The south is mild but wet, the north is colder, and the Highlands are the coldest and windiest. Always check forecasts at vedur.is before visiting.

Best Time to Visit: Summer (June–August) offers full access, Midnight Sun, and boat tours but has more crowds. Winter (November–March) brings ice caves and Northern Lights with limited daylight, while spring and fall provide fewer tourists and good access to most sites.

What to Bring: Essential items include waterproof clothing, layered outfits, sturdy hiking boots, hat and gloves, snacks, and a camera with spare batteries. For winter, add thermal layers, insulated boots, and a headlamp.

Planning a successful trip to Vatnajökull requires understanding the challenging conditions you might face and preparing accordingly.

Weather

One important thing to understand about Iceland is that the weather can change quickly. You can experience sunshine, rain, sleet, and fog all within an hour at Skaftafell. The park's weather varies by region:

  • South (Skaftafell, Jökulsárlón): Relatively mild but very wet. Summer temperatures typically range from 10 °C to 15°C (50°F to 59°F), while winter temperatures hover around 0°C (32°F), sometimes dropping lower.
  • North (Jökulsárgljúfur): Slightly drier but colder, especially in winter.
  • Highlands: Much colder and windier. Even in summer, temperatures can drop near freezing, particularly at night.

Always check weather forecasts at Vedur.is before heading out, and be prepared to change your plans if conditions worsen.

Best Time to Visit

Each season offers something different:

  • Summer (June-August) provides the most access. All roads are open, hiking trails are clear, and daylight lasts up to 24 hours in June thanks to the Midnight Sun. This is when boat tours operate on Jökulsárlón, and highland areas become accessible. The downside is more crowds and higher prices.
  • Winter (November-March) offers ice caves and Northern Lights, but limited daylight (4-6 hours in December). Some areas, like Dettifoss, may be closed due to snow. However, Jökulsárlón and Skaftafell remain open, and winter's blue light on the glacier is beautiful.
  • Spring (April-May) and Fall (September-October) have fewer tourists while maintaining reasonable access to most sites. These in-between seasons can be ideal if you don't need to visit highland areas.

I visited in late May and found it to be perfect, with fewer tourists, decent weather, and plenty of daylight hours.

What to Bring

Even for a summer visit, pack:

  • Waterproof jacket and pants: Essential for staying dry in Iceland's frequent rain or waterfall spray.
  • Layers: The temperature can change dramatically. I typically wore a base layer, fleece, and a waterproof shell that I could adjust throughout the day.
  • Sturdy hiking boots: Trails can be muddy, and proper ankle support is important for uneven terrain.
  • Hat and gloves: Useful even in summer, especially near glaciers.
  • Water bottle and snacks: Food options are limited within the park.
  • Camera with extra batteries: Cold temperatures drain batteries quickly.
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen: The sun can be bright, especially reflecting off ice and water.

For winter visits, add thermal base layers, insulated boots, and a headlamp (essential during the short daylight hours).

a woman in a yellow jacket is standing in the snow in front of snow covered mountains .

Wildlife and Conservation Efforts at Vatnajökull National Park

While Iceland doesn't have large predators or many mammals, Vatnajökull supports a range of wildlife.

The eastern part of the park is home to reindeer, which were introduced from Norway in the 18th century. Approximately 3,000 roam the region, although they're more commonly seen in winter when they migrate to lower elevations.

Birds are more common, with over 150 species recorded in the park. Jökulsárlón attracts Arctic terns and great skuas, while pink-footed geese gather in wetlands near Skaftafell. If you're lucky, you might spot Iceland's national bird, the gyrfalcon, hunting ptarmigan in the highlands.

Conservation challenges center around climate change, which is dramatically altering the park's glaciers. The Iceland Glaciological Society monitors retreat rates, documenting how rising temperatures are transforming the landscape. New land exposed by retreating ice offers research opportunities for studying ecological succession, which is the study of how plants and animals colonize previously ice-covered areas.

a herd of reindeer standing in a snowy field

Camping Inside the Park

Skaftafell Campground is open year-round with showers, toilets, and laundry, costing about 1,800 ISK ($15) per adult per night, while children under 17 stay free. Ásbyrgi Campground, set among birch trees in the northern canyon, also has toilets and showers. Both provide easy access to trails, with summer campers needing eye masks for the Midnight Sun and winter visitors requiring insulated sleeping bags for freezing temperatures.

Staying overnight within Vatnajökull lets you experience the park when day-trippers have left and nature takes over. For the full Vatnajökull experience, consider camping within the park.

The main campgrounds are:

  • Skaftafell Campground: Open year-round, this large site offers good facilities including toilets, hot showers, and washing machines. In summer, it can hold hundreds of campers (tents, campervans, and caravans). The fee is around 1,800 ISK (about $15) per adult per night, with children under 17 free. No reservations are needed, but arrive early in peak season as it fills quickly.
  • Ásbyrgi Campground: Situated in the northern section of the park, this peaceful site is nestled among birch trees in the horseshoe-shaped Ásbyrgi Canyon. Facilities include toilets and showers.

Both campgrounds are just steps away from hiking trails and natural attractions.

If you're camping in summer, I recommend you bring an eye mask, as the Midnight Sun makes sleeping difficult without one. For winter camping, bring a sleeping bag with strong isolation properties, and prepare for temperatures well below freezing.

a row of orange tents are sitting in a grassy field with mountains in the background .

Conclusion

Vatnajökull National Park shows Iceland at its most dramatic. The mix of massive glaciers, active volcanoes, and powerful waterfalls creates landscapes that seem like another world. Whether you're hiking beside a glacier, boating among blue icebergs, or standing in the spray of Europe's second most powerful waterfall, the park offers experiences you won't find elsewhere.

Frequently Asked Questions About Vatnajökull National Park

Most visitors spend 1–2 days exploring highlights like Jökulsárlón, Diamond Beach, and Skaftafell. To see both southern and northern areas, plan at least 3–4 days.

While puffins are more common along Iceland’s coastal cliffs, Vatnajökull mainly hosts Arctic terns, geese, and gyrfalcons. Puffins are rare here compared to places like Dyrhólaey or the Westman Islands.

Yes, the park is technically open year-round, but access depends on weather. Southern sites like Skaftafell and Jökulsárlón remain open, while northern and highland areas often close in winter.

For activities like glacier hikes, ice cave tours, or boat rides, advance booking is strongly recommended, especially in summer or peak winter season, when tours often sell out.