The Ice in Iceland: Vatnajökull National Park

There’s a place where the power and magnificence of the ice can be witnessed like nowhere else. And that’s Vatnajökull National Park, one of the three big national parks in the country and the largest national park in Europe.

The size is not the only thing impressive about it. The variety of landscapes, including glaciers, caves, lagoons, rivers, and geothermal activities, earned it a spot as a World Heritage Site.

Iceland used to have five national parks. However, a few years ago, the former parks of Skaftafell and Jökulsárgljúfur were merged into Vatnajökull.

Come with us on an adventure to explore this beautiful national park, one of the most unique places to visit in Iceland.

Why is Vatnajökull National Park worth a visit?

This park is a place of unparalleled beauty and natural wonder. It’s located in the southeast of Iceland, and covers 14% of the country’s landmass, making it Europe’s largest national park. The park is named after Vatnajökull, which is also the largest glacier in Europe. It’s name can be roughly translated into ‘Water Glacier’. Jökull means glacier in Icelandic, so if you see a place with a name that ends that way, you should know what to expect.

However, this park offers much more than glaciers and ice. Its unique combination of geological and ecological wonders draws visitors from all over the world.

In fact, Vatnajökull National Park is a true treasure with a huge diversity of landscapes. The park is characterized by its constant interaction between Iceland's fire and ice, as there’s volcanic activity happening underneath the ice, creating unique formations and anomalies.

One of the most striking features is the presence of numerous glacial tongues extending from their main glacier. These tongues, such as Skeiðarárjökull and Breiðamerkurjökull, create a beautiful contrast between the ice and the volcanic terrain surrounding them.

The park is also home to several active volcanoes, including Grímsvötn, Bárðarbunga, and Kverkfjöll. These volcanoes, often concealed beneath the glacier, have shaped the landscape through eruptions and geothermal activity, creating several areas full of hot springs, geothermal pools, and steam vents.

Even if fire and ice don’t seem to be the right elements to create life, Vatnajökull National Park is home to a surprisingly vast variety of flora and fauna. There are, of course, glacial ice deserts, but also lush green meadows. In spring and summer, the lower regions of the park burst into life with a variety of wildflowers, mosses, and grasses. These plants have adapted through centuries to the harsh conditions within the region.

Many animals have also found a home here, especially on the coast. You will find lots of seabirds, such as puffins, skuas, and arctic terns. Inland, you can spot pink-footed geese and whooper swans. The rivers and lakes inside the park are also full of fish, like the Arctic char or the brown trout.

Vatnajökull is not just about natural beauty, but also about history and folklore. This area has always been important to the settlements who have lived there. Some of the dramatic changes in the landscapes and the struggles that came with them have been documented in the icelandic sagas.

The park has several archaeological sites, including old farmsteads and traditional turf houses, which offer a window into the past. One important historical site is the farm of Hof, with its beautiful church that has a turf roof.

What to see in Vatnajökull National Park

Due to the park being so large, you’re going to need to spend some time to see it all. If you are determined to cover it in its entirety, you’ll need several days. However, we’ve tried to condense it into the main highlights.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

This is, without a doubt, not only one of the most iconic places in Vatnajökull National Park, but in Iceland as a whole. The natural lagoon is famous for the pieces of ice floating in the water. These little icebergs have separated from their nearby Breiðamerkurjökull glacier and can be seen gliding on the lake’s surface before drifting out into the ocean. There, some end up on the famous Diamond Beach, creating a beautiful contrast of the blue ice resting in the black sand.

The lagoon is not only a visual marvel but also a place of ecological importance. One of the best things about Jökulsárlón is that it never looks the same, as the pieces of ice are constantly shifting and changing. Here, you also have a good chance to spot seals, arctic terns and skuas.

Skaftafell

This part of Vatnajökull was once a national park of its own, which should give you an idea of how impressive it is. Skaftafell is like a green oasis between glaciers and volcanic fields. The area is full of hiking trails, taking you to all the corners of the preservation area.

One of the most popular routes is the hike that leads to Svartifoss, “the black waterfall”, one of Iceland’s landmark waterfalls. This cascade is surrounded by dark hexagonal basalt columns, creating a truly dramatic environment.

Skaftafell is also home to the Skaftafellsjökull glacier, a popular destination amongst visitors. The glacier's edge allows you to get a close look at the ice and the unique formations created by the glacier’s movements. Make sure to go to the Skaftafell Visitor Center to get detailed information about the area and all of the trails that cross the reserve.

Dettifoss

If you head to the north area of the park, you can find Dettifoss, Europe’s second-most powerful waterfall after the Rhine Falls in Switzerland. The sheer force of the water shooting down into the canyon below makes one feel small. Dettifoss is fed by water sourced from the Vatnajökull glacier.

The canyon it pours into is called Jökulsárgljúfur, a rugged landscape formed by volcanic activity and glacial floods. You can access both sides of the cascade using different trails in order to get different angles of this spectacle. The west side provides a closer view of the falls, while the east side offers a panoramic perspective of the canyon.

Ice Caves

Vatnajökull National Park is famous for its ice caves, which are created during the winter months. These caves, with their translucent blue walls and intricate formations, offer a surreal experience. They are carved by the water melting from the glacier, which then freezes again. Each winter, new caves are formed, so this is a landscape in constant evolution and change.

Exploring the caves is a magnificent experience, but must be done with an expert guide. They won't only give you great information about the formation of the caves and glaciers in general, but will also provide appropriate gear and make sure that security measures are properly followed.

Hvannadalshnúkur

If you love climbing, Hvannadalshnúkur, the highest peak of Iceland, offers a challenging yet rewarding challenge. It stands at 2,110 meters (6,920 feet) tall and from the top you can see all of the surrounding glaciers and volcanic landscapes. This excursion is only recommended for experienced climbers.

The climb to Hvannadalshnúkur is a demanding trek that takes several hours and requires good physical health and preparation. The route passes through glacial terrain and all climbers need to be equipped accordingly.

What to do in Vatnajökull National Park

Hiking and Trekking

This park has an extensive network of hiking trails, ranging from easy walks to more demanding challenges, like the climb we mentioned. Popular routes include the trail to Svartifoss, the Skaftafellsjökull glacier, and the Laugavegur trail, which stretches into the park’s northern regions.

The best part about exploring Vatnajökull National Park on foot is the variety of landscapes you’ll encounter. One path might take you to a beautiful green valley and a waterfall; another will make you cross a volcanic landscape that seems to be from another planet; and another will get you on top of a glacier tongue. Each trail offers its own unique challenges and rewards.

For those looking for a more immersive experience, multi-day treks are available. These longer hikes allow you to explore the more remote areas of the park and allows you to experience the true wilderness of Vatnajökull. Camping is permitted in designated areas, there are mountain huts available as well, for those hikers on some of the longer routes.

Glacier Tours

This is an experience that gets no better than in Vatnajökull National Park. Guided glacier hikes and ice climbing tours are available, offering a safe and thrilling way to experience these giants up close. Expert guides provide all necessary equipment and instructions.

Glacier tours do vary in difficulty, so don’t be concerned if you think it might be too difficult. Anyone can do it.

Wildlife Watching

As Vatnajökull’s ecosystems are so different and varied, there’s a vast amount of plant and animal species that live here. Many species of birds nest in the area and the park’s rivers and lakes are home to the aforementioned Arctic char and brown trout. By the way, there are some spots inside the park that allow fishing.

If you head to the coast, more precisely to Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, there are high chances to see some seals. In the most remote areas of the park, deep inland, with some luck the elusive Arctic fox can be spotted.

Geothermal Baths

Soaking in warm mineral waters while the temperature outside is chilly is one of the guilty pleasures many tourists (and locals) in Iceland seek. There’s no better way to end a day of exploring than taking a geothermal bath in one of the many places in Vatnajökull where you can make that dream come true.

Geothermal baths provide a unique way to experience Iceland's natural beauty while enjoying the benefits of warm, mineral-rich waters. The baths are set in picturesque locations, most often with cinematic views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.

Although it’s just outside the park, one of the most famous places is Mývatn.

Photography

With its dramatic landscapes and unique light conditions, Vatnajökull National Park is a paradise for photographers. Actually, the whole country is like a photography studio come to life.

The varied landscape offers something for every type of photographer. The icebergs of Jökulsárlón, the basalt columns of Svartifoss, and the towering peaks of Hvannadalshnúkur are excellent places to take amazing pictures. The changing light conditions, especially during the long summer days and the Northern Lights in winter are some of the best times for photography.

Where is Vatnajökull National Park and how to get there?

Vatnajökull National Park is located in the southeast of Iceland, stretching from the Highlands in the north to the south coast. Its vast size means there are multiple entry points and areas to explore.

The most convenient way to reach Vatnajökull National Park is by car. The park is accessible via the Ring Road (Route 1), which circles the entire country. From Reykjavik, the drive to the southern entrance at Skaftafell takes approximately four hours. The northern parts of the park, including Dettifoss, can be reached in about seven to eight hours.

Driving in Iceland is generally straightforward, and the roads are well-maintained. However, it’s important to be prepared for changing weather conditions and to check road conditions before setting out, especially in winter. Snow can cause some roads, especially F-Roads to be closed, so make sure before setting off.

Guided Tours

Once you get to the park, guided tours are a great way to explore Vatnajökull National Park without the stress of planning and navigating. The tours are led by experienced guides who provide valuable information about the park’s history, geology, and wildlife. Multi-day tours often include accommodations and meals.

What’s the weather like in Vatnajökull National Park?

The weather in Vatnajökull National Park, and in Iceland in general, is quite variable and unpredictable. Also, the different areas of the park, with its diverse landscapes and altitude variations, can play a big part in weather differences.

Summer (June to August)

Summer is the most popular time to visit Vatnajökull National Park. During these months, temperatures are mild, ranging from 10°C to 15°C (50°F to 59°F). The long daylight hours provide a lot of time for exploring and hiking. However, rain and wind can be common, make sure to bring waterproof and layered clothing.

Winter (November to March)

Winters are long and cold in Iceland. However, this season transforms the park into a snowy wonderland. Temperatures can drop to -10°C (14°F) or lower, especially in higher altitudes. This is the best time to explore the ice caves and there are more chances to see the Northern Lights.

Spring (April to May)

In spring, the whole park is in constant change. The fields come alive with plants and flowers, and the snow begins to melt, so the rivers and waterfalls are at their best. Temperatures range from 0°C to 10°C (32°F to 50°F), but it gradually increases as the season goes by. On the other hand, it’s a rainy season.

Autumn (September to October)

This season is very similar in temperature and conditions to spring, but decreasing instead of going up. Also, the days get shorter with the passing of the weeks. The park bursts in colors during this time, providing great backdrops for your hikes and pictures.

Travel Tips

• The best way to get to Vatnajökull National Park is by car. Depending on the season, make sure your vehicle has the appropriate accessories and tires.
• The weather can be unpredictable and constantly changing. It can also affect the roads, so check every morning the weather forecast and the road conditions before setting off for your destination.
• The best way to fight the weather in Iceland is dressing in layers. Always bring waterproof and windproof clothing, as well as good hiking boots.
• Respect the environment. Vatnajökull is a treasure not only for Iceland but for the world, and it’s our job to keep it that way.