Tungnaá, a beautiful river in the heart of Iceland

What’s Tungnaá?

Tungnaá is a river that starts its journey at the western edge of Vatnajökull, Iceland’s and Europe’s largest glacier, which dominates the southeast of the country. From there, it carves its way in the southern Highlands, winding through volcanic terrain before eventually joining up with the Þjórsá River.

Historically, Tungnaá had a turbulent and slow water flow full of glacial sediments, but things changed in 2013 when a hydroelectric project cleared up its waters. Now, it’s a clean, almost transparent river that has sculpted canyons on its course and created pools that stand out in the middle of an already astonishing environment.

This transformation didn’t just change its look. Since then, Tungnaá has become a hotspot for fishing, especially fly fishing. The river is full of different species of fish, such as the brown trout and the Arctic char, and some of the animals are as big as 6 kilograms (13 pounds). Even if you’re not into fishing, though, the sheer beauty of the place is enough to make the trip up here worth it. You will find deep gorges, large plains, and the presence of the Vatnajökull glacier. It’s as raw and remote as Iceland can get.

Tungnaá Facts and Features

The river has a total length of 129 kilometers (80 miles) from its glacial source to where it merges with Þjórsá. It might not seem much compared to other major rivers in the world, but considering Iceland’s size, that’s quite impressive. And then it joins Þjórsá, which is the longest river in the country.

There are several hydroelectric plants along its course to harness its power, generating clean energy for the country. These stations have calmed its wild flow and cleared its waters, but they’ve also made parts of the river more accessible than they once were.

What brings people the most to Tungnaá, though, is fishing. The crystal-clear water lets anglers spot their targets—those brown trout and Arctic char we mentioned before- and catching one in such a remote and wild setting is a thrill.

Before the hydroelectric changes, the river had a milky color that came from the glacial melt, and there were tons of rocks flowing down. Now, you can see straight through the water, which is not only ideal for fishing but also creates a gorgeous image. And not just because of the water. Beyond that, the surrounding landscapes are amazing: volcanic ash fields, dramatic canyons, and the beautiful contrast of green moss against black rocks.

Where’s Tungnaá and How to Get There

If there’s something about Tungnaá that is not positive, it’s that it is not easy to get there. This isn’t a place that is on a scenic route or close to any town or city. It’s located in the Highlands, which are covered in deep snow for most of the year. In fact, this area is only accessible during the summer months, from June to September. The weather is so harsh the rest of the year that the roads in the Highlands are closed. Even in the warmer months, it’s not an easy route whatsoever.

The roads leading there and crossing the Highlands are the infamous F-roads, Iceland’s mountain tracks. It’s mandatory to drive a 4x4 car to go on these roads, as they are made of gravel, they’re rugged, and they even require crossing rivers. Nothing your average city car can handle.

From Reykjavík, there are two routes you can follow to get to Tungnaá, both with the same first stage. Take the Ring Road (Route 1) eastbound and drive for one hour. A few kilometers after you’ve passed the city of Selfoss, take a turn to the left to join Route 26. After a while, this road will transform into F26, an F-road, that gets to the Tungnaá area.

The other option is to continue on the Ring Road for longer, not turning into Route 26. Instead, go one for another two hours until you reach the crossroads with F208, which you can access from the south. This route is the best one if you are staying in the south or coming from the east. Either way, fuel up and gather supplies before venturing into the Highlands. There are no gas stations or shops in the region. And, even in summer, check always the road conditions before you depart, as they can change instantly due to the weather.

The Weather at Tungnaá

The weather in the Highlands is as wild and changing as the landscapes you can find there. One minute, it’s sunny, and it is 15°C (59°F); the next, it drops to 5°C (41°F), and rain pours down. The wind is another factor to consider, as it can make it feel colder. The valley carved by the river is wide, and the wind sweeps across the open terrain with little to stop it, so there can be gusts that can be pretty strong.

If you’re staying in the area, the temperatures can drop significantly once the sun sets. This is all right if you’re spending the night in a cabin or lodge, but bring a good tent that can resist wind and a good sleeping bag if you’re camping. As the weather changes so much and so instantly, it’s always a good idea to check the local forecast daily or, if possible, every hour.

What to Wear When Going to Tungnaá

Dressing for Tungnaá is all about layers and versatility. Start with a base layer that wicks sweat. A synthetic thermal shirt or merino wool works great. Avoid using cotton, as it can get damp and takes a lot to dry up. Add a warm mid-layer, like a fleece or woolen sweater. To finish up, a waterproof and windproof jacket. This also applies to pants, if possible, especially if you’re fishing. Sturdy hiking boots are also a must: waterproof ones with good grip, since the ground’s rocky and uneven.

Even if you’re going to Tungnaá only in the summer, a few extras can come in handy. A warm hat, gloves, and a buff or scarf will save you when the wind howls. Sunglasses and sunscreen might sound odd for Iceland, but the sun reflecting off water, snow, and rock can really harm your skin and eyes.

Things to See and Do Near Tungnaá

The Highlands are home to some of the most amazing spots on the island, so you'll have plenty to see besides Tungnaá.

Vatnajökull

Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Iceland, covers a significant portion of the southeast of the country and gives its name to one of the three national parks on the island. It’s known for its vast ice fields and intricate cave systems.

The highlight is probably the ice caves that are below the ice cap. In the summer, the water from the glacier melts and carves the ice out, creating caves inside. The water then freezes again, and these astonishing caves can be visited in winter when it’s safe. It’s compulsory to go on a guided tour for safety, which costs between $150 and $180. The guides offer the appropriate equipment and give fascinating information about the glaciers and their importance in the national environment.

Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar is a geothermal area in the Highlands. The most visually striking features are the colorful rhyolite mountains, formed by mineral deposits. The area has an extensive network of hiking trails of various lengths and difficulty levels. There’s also a geothermal bathing area where you can enjoy a relaxing bath after a day of exploring.

Þórsmörk

Named after the Nordic god Thor, Þórsmörk is a green valley surrounded by glaciers and mountains. It’s a rare lush environment within the stark Highland landscape. The area has several hiking trails, designated camping areas, and a variety of plant and animal life adapted to its peculiar conditions.

Laugavegur Trail

The Laugavegur Trail is probably the most famous hiking route in Iceland. It has a length of 55 kilometers (34 miles) between Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk, and it goes through diverse terrains such as geothermal zones, lava fields, and glacial valleys. It usually takes 3 to 4 days to complete, and there are several mountain huts and camping areas along the way where hikers can spend the night.

Fjallabak Nature Reserve

South of Tungnaá, we can find the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, a fantastic area characterized by its geothermal activity and unique geological structures. Crater lakes, hot springs, and extensive lava fields define the reserve, which remains largely untouched by human development.

Hveravellir

Hveravellir is a geothermal site in the central Highlands with active hot springs, bubbling mud pots, and a natural pool suitable for bathing. It offers facilities such as basic lodging and is a resting point for travelers. The area is one of the best examples of geothermal activity in Iceland. Here, you can see steam coming out of the floor and colorful mineral deposits.

Mælifell Mountain

This mountain is one of the most unique and photographed in the Highlands. Mælifell is a volcanic cone with a symmetrical shape covered in green moss, rising in the middle of a black volcanic desert. The contrast of colors is simply amazing.

Travel Tips

A trip to Tungnaá takes some preparation, so here you have some things to consider for your trip:

• Timing: As we have mentioned before, a trip to Tungnaá is only possible between late June and early September when the F-roads are open. July’s peak season, but August can be quieter.
• Sleep: There are no hotels near Tungnaá. Bring a tent if you want to camp in one of the designated areas or book a mountain hut. These can fill up quickly, so it’s best if you reserve in advance.
• Safety: Check the road conditions and weather forecast before you go. Carry a map, compass, or GPS, as there’s little to no cell service in the Highlands. When driving, don’t cross a river unless you’re completely sure it’s safe to do so.
• Supplies: Bring food, water, gas and everything you are going to need for the time you are there. There are no shops, gas stations or restaurants.
• Respect the environment: The Highlands are a raw and wild region that seems untouched, and it’s everybody’s business that it keeps this way.

Conclusion

Tungnaá isn’t just a river: it’s the perfect place to experience Iceland’s wildest side. The clear waters and amazing fishing opportunities make it a mandatory stop for fishing enthusiasts and nature lovers alike. It’s not the easiest spot to reach, and the weather can be a bit tricky to deal with, but that’s part of what makes it special. If you make it up there, you’ll be rewarded with sights that will go with you forever.